Deep fryer
Getting Rid of Trans Fat—
One Chef’s Journey

Trans fats are in the media and diners are taking notice. Since last January, the United States Food and Drug Administration has required packaged-food labels to reveal levels of trans fat. In June, the Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association (CRFA) published a guide to help its members meet the trans-fat limits proposed by the federal Trans Fat Task Force.


Last November, The New York City Board of Health adopted the U.S.’s first major municipal ban on the use of all but trace amounts of trans fats in restaurant cooking—from white tablecloths to QSRs. The ban takes effect in July.


Some national chains and independents are voluntarily switching to trans-fat-free oils. Last August, hamburger giant Wendy’s International Inc. successfully converted to an almost trans-fat-free soy/corn oil blend. Taco Bell has committed to switching from a partially hydrogenated soybean oil to a trans-fat-free canola oil by April. KFC will change to a low linolenic soybean oil. (Both fast-food giants are subsidiaries of Yum! Brands, Inc.) Darden concepts Red Lobster and Olive Garden will move to trans-fat-free frying oil by November.


A chef’s story

But is flavor being compromised? And what about cost? We talked to one operator who made the transition to “good oil” from hydrogenated oils. She says her food is better than ever.


Ina Pinkney, chef-owner of INA’S Kitchen in Chicago is famous for, among other dishes, her fried chicken, hand-cut pommes frites and pancakes. Before she discovered the trans-fat-free oil, she relied on partially hydrogenated oil to deliver crispness, depth of flavor and good mouthfeel to those signature dishes.


“When I found the new oil, I dumped out the old oil and started to fry. We tasted everything, and everything was perfect. We changed that day,” says Pinkney, who spoke at a public hearing on trans fats at the New York Board of Health in October.


“The switch hasn’t impacted negatively the taste of my food in any way,” she says. In fact, Pinkney says that the Omega-9 canola oil gives her food a cleaner taste, and the crispness of fried foods lasts longer. “It’s also got a higher flash point, and I like the way it browns food.”


She also reports that although the Omega-9 canola oil is more expensive, it lasts about 75 percent longer in the deep fryers, so the cost is actually lower. (She sources Nutra-Clear NT™, Bunge Oils) “Depending on how much you use your deep fryers, it can last up to six days, as long as you filter it daily,” says Pinkney. “The partially hydrogenated oil needs to be switched out after two.”


The challenge for chefs who want to replace trans fats is to find the best trans-fat alternative for each dish. “Chefs need to experiment,” says Pinkney. “Hey, if KFC—with its very specific flavor profile—can do it, everybody can.”


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What is Trans Fat?

Trans fats are trans fatty acids. Although they occur naturally in some animal-based foods, the more common ones are manufactured. Hydrogen is injected into vegetable oil to increase shelf life and durability. According to the Food and Drug Administration, trans fat, like saturated fat and dietary cholesterol, raises the LDL cholesterol that increases your risk for coronary heart disease.


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Where can I learn more about sourcing trans-fat-free oils?

  • The Canadian Restaurant and Foodservices Association (CRFA) offers a user-friendly guide, “How to Reduce or Eliminate Trans Fats in Menu Items” that breaks down what oil works for different applications.
  • Bunge Oils provides Omega-9 canola oil under the branded name Nutra-Clear NT TM, which has zero trans fat, the lowest amount of saturated fat among oils, and the highest level of heart-healthy monounsaturated fat. Dow Agro Sciences, the seed grower that supplies Bunge Oils, plans on increasing its production of Omega-9 canola oils to more than 1 billion pounds this year.
    www.bungenorthamerica.com

The opinions in this article are not necessarily the opinions of Kraft.


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